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Tokyo · Shibuya

The crossing · then the quiet side

Everyone comes for the crossing. The locals walk ten minutes past it — to Oku-Shibuya's coffee counters, record shops and lantern-lit yokocho. Follow them.

How to enjoy this town

Oku-Shibu coffee counters

Eight seats, one kettle, complete silence about the chaos five blocks away.

Record digging on Udagawa-chō

City pop, jazz, obscure 7-inches. Your suitcase will complain; ignore it.

A yokocho evening

Lantern light, six-stool bars, yakitori smoke. The Japan you imagined, one alley wide.

And the town's head spa

Certified, one or two per town. Ordinary street, extraordinary hour.

Other towns →KyotoTokyo · Ginza