Town guide
Tokyo · Ginza
Polished avenues · hidden alleys
Japan's most polished mile — but slip one street back and it's all tiny bars, stationery temples and napolitan spaghetti. That's where we are.
How to enjoy this town
Napolitan at a 1960s kissaten
Ketchup spaghetti on a silver plate, coffee after. Retro Tokyo lunch, zero irony.
Itoya's twelve floors of paper
A department store for stationery. Buy a pen you'll keep for ten years.
Tsukiji outer market, early
Sushi for breakfast, tamagoyaki on a stick. Come hungry, leave planning your return.
And the town's head spa
Certified, one or two per town. Ordinary street, extraordinary hour.

