Town guide
Kyoto
Old capital · temples · quiet lanes
A thousand-year-old town that still moves at walking speed. Come for the temples — stay for the alleys, the kissaten pudding, and one very good head spa.
How to enjoy this town
Philosopher's Path at 7am
Before the crowds: canal water, cats, temple bells. The best jet-lag cure that isn't a head spa.
Nishiki Market snacks
400 years of Kyoto's kitchen. Try the soy-milk doughnuts and don't plan lunch afterwards.
A back-lane kissaten
Dark wood, a firm pudding, coffee in a cup chosen for you. Ordinary Kyoto — which is to say, perfect.
Kamo River at dusk
Sit on the bank, equal distance from the couple next to you. The town's oldest rule, and its best hour.
And the town's head spa
Certified, one or two per town. Ordinary street, extraordinary hour.
